Dune route along beach, sea walls, mudflats and harbor towns

 

In summer Intersail sails along the Dutch dunes, transfers you to Texel and then returns to Amsterdam via the IJsselmeer. You sleep on a converted cargo boat called 'Christina', cycle through the dunes and visit harbor towns such as Enkhuizen and Hoorn. How do you keep a cool head when the beaches and harbors bulge and the numbers of cows and birds in the meadow decline steadily?

Departure and arrival are in the center of Amsterdam. On Saturday afternoon the boat sails via Zaandam to Alkmaar. The skipper of the Christina is called Toon. Henny is the accompanying cook. The tour group has sixteen participants. They are distributed like herrings in a barrel over ten tiny huts. At the end of the journey there are fifteen left. Some traveling companions are relatives, who left for South Africa at a young age. After the first dinner, 'Sarie Marijs' resounds through the hold.

In Zaandam we go by bike to Alkmaar. The picturesque Zaanse Schans, the beautifully restored harbor of Krommenie and the beautiful Alkmaardermeer show themselves from their best side. The bicycle junction signs point the way, but are not always easy to find. We spend the night in the harbor of Alkmaar. The cabins are noisy. A traveling companion wanders the deck into the wee hours.

Sunday we go by bike to Den Helder, via the woods near Bergen aan Zee and the seawall of Petten. The parking lots at the beach are filling up. The beaches at Bergen and Texel are among the busiest areas in North Holland. Sunday 21 July 2013 is a great day. Between Camperduin and Petten, the outside of the seawall offers a special experience. There is a lot of water to be seen as we turn the head to the wind. The view from the dune tops at Sint Maartenszee is extremely beautiful. The slanting clipped pines serve as a parasol and provide a magnificent panorama. We swim at the beach entrance of Callantsoog. Towards Den Helder the row of dunes becomes narrower. This is where the adjacent flower fields and meadows come into view. At Den Helder we cycle along the outside of the seawall again, to find the Christina in the Marina. The dinner is excellent, Henny is an excellent cook.

During the crossing, the Christina calls at the historic fishing port of Oude Schild and not the ferry sidewalk of Texel. We explore the island through two circles along the edge. First via the main town of Den Burg to Ecomare, then along the Slufter to the lighthouse and finally back along the Wadden dike. The next day from the harbor towards the ferry, via Den Hoorn to the beach at De Koog and then back via Den Burg.

Beach Texel de Koog, drawingBeach Texel de Koog, drawing

There is a market in Den Burg on Monday morning. At Ecomare we seek refreshment in the woods. We have against the wind towards the lighthouse on the north cape of the island. De Slufter broke through the first row of dunes not long ago. Now the seawater is allowed to flow in and out in a controlled manner and a special saltwater environment is created, which periodically overflows. Texel is a paradise for beachgoers, paddlers and hikers and an Eldorado for birds. Hidden in the forest and the dune valleys are numerous holiday colonies, a short distance from the sea. Significantly fewer holidaymakers come to the side of the mudflats. We cycle for a few hours along the bottom of the dike and only meet a handful of holidaymakers and a lost birdwatcher. The low sun at the end of the afternoon makes the salt marshes an experience. Beautiful colors mark the mudflats, rotting weeds turn from green to yellow and white. I see a Spoonbill within the dike, which creates water plants on its own, and I follow the bird concert closely. The next afternoon I draw the beach and conveniently forget the sunbathers, who are simmering en masse.

IJsselmeer, Enkhuizen, DrawingIJsselmeer, Enkhuizen, Drawing

There is confusion when we come on deck on Tuesday afternoon 23 July! The wandering companion disembarked and departed with an unknown destination. A search yields nothing. Then there were only fifteen left. The grim tune of Drs. P. 'Death ride' (1974) is urgent. Omsk is a beautiful city but just a bit too far away. The Christina sets course over the Wadden Sea to the locks at Den Oever, to reach the IJsselmeer through the Afsluitdijk. Seals are basking on sandbanks. We quickly passed the lock at Den Oever. The fresh water of the IJsselmeer smells different and the mosquitoes are looking for the attack. The three-course dinner, served on deck while sailing, is nothing short of spectacular. The shore of the Wieringermeer becomes more and more frayed towards Medenblik due to scattered shrubs. Suddenly the skipper stops the boat and we can dive into the IJsselmeer. This water turns out to be five degrees warmer than the North Sea. I take a chance and am amazed.

The skipper leaves Medenblik on the right to moor in Enkhuizen. The church tower of Enkhuizen formsa striking beacon from the water. Enkhuizen accommodates the brown fleet and has several marinas for modern ships. Grown up boys and girls dive from the harbor head. It remains unsettled until late in the evening.

We visit the city center of Enkhuizen, where the VOC has left its mark. The Zuiderzee Museum consists of a village of monuments, which were originally scattered along the Zuiderzee. From austere sailors' cottages and village schools to opulent shops and workshops of wealthy shipowners and craftsmen. You can tie fishing nets and buy smoked herring. The heritage includes buildings, ships, traditional costumes, juicy stories and songs of life. In contrast, modern art is on display. My eye falls on Delft blue clogs with high heels by fashion designers Victor & Rolf. In Hoorn, the Christina is moored at the wooden pier head, where Bontekoe's cabin boys peek over the dike and the lock gates are constantly open.

Wooden Head Horn, drawingWooden Head Horn, drawing

Underneath the dike to Volendam, you can especially enjoy the meadow. The Christina is located directly on the Markermeer. There we are treated to the last dinner. When the sun sets, all ships take on a red glow, resembling freshly polished copper.

Volendam, Markermeer, drawingVolendam, Markermeer, drawing

We sail the last leg from Volendam to Amsterdam on the Christina. During the boat trip on the Markermeer we come across the 'Horse of Marken', as the characteristic lighthouse is called. Behind a breakwater lies IJburg, the newest district of Amsterdam and the harbor front of Java Island. The ostentatious bra bridge is reminiscent of the work of Marlies Dekkers: a curvier, hung in the ropes. In the Oranjesluizen, Toon terrifies the skippers of motor yachts with his colossus. An immense cruise ship (12 high) lies along the quay of the IJ and changes the Christina from Goliath into David in one fell swoop. In addition to the dunes, the sea walls and the harbor heads make a great impression.

Skipper Toon is so enthusiastic about this travel story that all traveling companions receive an email. The best response comes from South Africa.

“Baie dankie vir those photos but spread vir that beautiful newsreel with drawings Johan! This is going to be a lovely memory that I will read from my knders (although you will just understand those drawings). Beautiful day!"