Three weeks in Scotland

 

At 8.29 am we take the train from Rotterdam to Schiphol. We arrive here three quarters of an hour later. We fly with EasyJet to the Scottish city of Edinburgh and leave at half past one. Check-in starts 2 hours earlier. Our suitcases weigh more than 20 kilos, but fortunately nothing is said about it. Officially you have to pay 9 euros per kilo overweight and together we had 6 kilos too much. The flight is going well. At 12.45 we land in Edinburgh fifteen minutes early. After we have picked up the suitcase, we look for our rental car, which is located in a nearby parking lot. We are brought here by a free shuttle bus. We immediately see that there is damage to the front wheel, but luckily Hertz already knew about that.

With the rental car we drive to Ravensdown Guesthouse. Here we have booked a - very small - room. The owner of the guesthouse speaks good Dutch, because his wife is from the Netherlands. When we have put the suitcases in the room, we take the bus to the city. Driving in Edinburgh by car is not going well. And there are extra people outside today because of the Edinburgh International Festival. This large cultural festival with many performances takes place every year in August and lasts 3 weeks. The official festival consists of opera, classical music, ballet and drama. But there is also the Edinburgh Fringe, a somewhat alternative festival, which is just as big in size. Leaflets and artists recruit visitors to their shows on the street. There are also a lot of street artists active. Today it is nice and warm and sunny.

We get tickets for Break Out, a show in the Assembly Rooms, part of the Fringe festival. It turns out to be a funny dance show by a group from Korea. It is already the 3rd time that this group performs during this festival. It is a comical and cheerful breakdance performance. Very nice done. After the show we want to eat something, but most restaurants are packed. Eventually we find a place with a Mexican. Then we walk a bit through the old town, past the Edinburgh Castle. At the end of the evening we see some fireworks.

Edinburgh - St Andrews - Kingussie: 245 km

Today the weather is sunny, but a bit colder than yesterday. We start with a traditional Scottish breakfast and then head out of Edinburgh. We drive over the Forth Bridge, a huge toll bridge over the Firth of Forth. There is also a special railway bridge at the toll bridge. It was built between 1883 and 1890 and is considered one of the best structures of the Victorian era. Finished in 1964, the toll bridge put an end to the 900-year-old ferry connection.

Forth Bridge, EdinburghForth Bridge, Edinburgh

We continue towards the East Neuk region, which is located northeast of the city of Edinburgh, in the county of Fife. We arrive in St Andrews around 12 noon. St Andrews is a medieval university town, where we stay for a short time. We have lunch in the Glass House and then we visit the ruins of the medieval cathedral from 1160. In 1559 this cathedral was stormed and destroyed. And until 1820, the stones of the ruins were used to build other things in the area. From the Rudell tower I have a beautiful view over the city and surroundings. After this we will visit the Royal and Ancient Golf Club with its famous golf course. This golf club in St Andrews has a good reputation in the world of golf. In this club, which was founded in 1754, the rules of golf are still decided.

We drive via Perth to Kingussie. That is about 165 km. In Kingussie we stay in the Auld Poor House with Gordon and Paulene. They give us a spacious room with toilet and shower. After a short stop we walk to the village, here we do some shopping and afterwards we have a pint in the local pub. We immediately notice that the pub is completely non-smoking - what a relief. In Scotland smoking has been banned in public places including in catering establishments for 1.5 years. In the evening we dine in the Silverfjord restaurant. Fine food, served by a handsome, friendly, but somewhat inexperienced and insecure waiter. When we get back to the Auld Poor guesthouse we see that the right front tire of our car is soft. We drive to a gas station to inflate the tire, but after a few kilometers the tire gets softer. We change the tire and call Hertz. They put us through to the English Roadside Assistance (AA). They then say that as long as we don't have any real problems, we should call Hertz during office hours tomorrow.

Cairngorms National Park

We start with a nice breakfast and then we go to Glenmore Forest i/h National Park Cairngorms with the packed lunch made by Paulene. At the visitor center we get suggestions for routes that will lead us to the top of Meall' a Bhuachallie (795 m). We climb up and have to go over some pretty steep partknow. Within the foreseeable future we will rise above the tree line and we will walk on a piece of heathland, where it is completely quiet. No animals and no people, not even birds. At the top of the Meall' a Bhuachallie it is quite windy. Behind a wall of stacked slate we eat our packed lunch. Then we walk down the other side. On the way it starts to rain heavily. It is luckily drier down in the valley.

Loch Garten in the Cairngoms National ParkLoch Garten in the Cairngoms National Park

Tired but satisfied we go back to our Guesthouse. We take a shower and after a short rest we drive back to take a trip on the Cairngorms Mountain railway. This railway takes you to the top of Cairngorm Mountain, where there is a pavilion at about 1000 m altitude, from here you have a nice view. The construction was highly controversial among various environmental movements, who felt that it would affect the landscape. It is quite chilly upstairs: about 5 to 6°C. In the evening we eat in the Guesthouse, where Paulene really did her best.

Kingussie - Craigellachie: 80 km

After breakfast we drive to Aberlour. First we drink a (very bad) cappuccino in the Aberlour hotel. And then we call the local whiskey distillery to make a reservation for the tour. It is said to start at 11:30 am. The tour lasts a total of 2 hours and our guide Julian enthusiastically explains how the Whiskey was created, about various events that influenced the industry and explains the distillation process. At the end of the tour we get a guided tasting. We smell and taste 2 semi-finished products (sherry cask and spirit) and then 3 varieties of Aberlour products. A 10 and 16 year old single malt and the a'budhna, a special whiskey according to an old recipe.

We have lunch in Mash Tun and then drive to Craigellachie. Here we booked at B&B Green Hall Gallery. The nice host Stewart welcomes us. In the afternoon we drive to Banff on the Grampian north coast. Here we want to visit the Duff House, once the home of the Earls of Fife. After the visit we stay in the tea room of Duff House for something to eat and drink. Then we drive back to the B&B. In the evening we eat at the Highlander Inn and also drink a beer here. The food in the bar isn't that bad at all. We end the evening completely appropriately with a number of single malt whiskies.

Craigellachie

We start the day with a visit to the Glenlivet Estate, a crown domain of 23,000 hectares. There are several marked walking routes. We choose the Glenbrown and Kylnadrochit walk of 6.75 km. The walking route is slightly hilly and offers beautiful views over the heath and the surrounding area. We see rabbits and sheep, but unfortunately no big game. After 2.5 hours we are back at the starting point near Tomintoul. We have lunch in the Clockhouse restaurant on the main square in Tomintoul. The town is located at an altitude of about 400 m and was created after 1745 after revolts by tenant farmers and the people of the land drifted. The landowners panicked and grouped them together in planned villages to keep a closer eye on them.

After a delicious lunch we drive to Craigellachie. We stop at the Speyside Cooperage for a tour, this is on the outskirts of Craigellachie. We walk past an exhibition about the history of whiskey barrel making. Then we see a movie, and then we see the coopers repairing barrels for the whiskey industry. Here is everything explained by a guide. The coopers make about 20 regular barrels a day and get a good wage. Whiskey barrels are made from oak, which is imported from Canada or the US. The barrels are used on average 3 to 5 times. The whiskey matures for 10 to 18 years in a barrel.

After a short rest in our Bed & Breakfast we have a beer and some food in the Highlander Inn. The food in the pub is again excellent and the service extremely friendly. After dinner I do a whiskey flight, which is a sample selection of 6 different whiskeys. For me this time it was single malts from Speyside, the area where we stay and where most (more than 40) distilleries are located.

Craigellachie - Inverness 97 km

Today we are going to Inverness. First we have to go to Kwik Fit to get the tire repaired. According to Hertz, we should have the repair done there. But later it turns out that repair is no longer possible and the tire has to be replaced. Our B&B is located fifteen minutes outside Inverness, in Dores on the Loch Ness. From our spacious room we have a view of Loch Ness. Inverness is not a very attractive city. There are few historic buildings and the new buildings show very little architectural sophistication. Inverness (rightly) calls itself the 'capital/gateway to they Highlands'.

We go to the Kilt Making Centre, located above a clothing store which specializes in typical Scottish clothing. The exhibition briefly tells the history of the Kilt and Tartan, the fabric from which they are made. We get to hear a somewhat romanticized version of history. The truth is that the original kilts were made from a virtually waterproof fabric, Helande. This fabric was woven from the wool of native sheep. The fabric had a bright (camouflage) color and was a kind of toga that was wrapped around the waist and then over the shoulder. It was only when Sir Walter Scott started to elevate the kilt to a national symbol that it became popular. When Queen Victoria discovered the country as a holiday destination, the kilt definitely became the symbol of Scotland.

Castle of Inverness Castle of Inverness

We walk into a pub for a drink after which we go to our room. We first relax in the room and then we take a walk along the banks of Loch Ness. We eat at the Mustard Seed. A large and nice restaurant, located in a former church. The restaurant is very busy and the food is okay, but no better than the eatery level. We drink a cup of coffee in a coffee shop.

Inverness - Cromarty - Thurso 189 km

This morning we start with a nice breakfast and then we drive to the Black Isle, a peninsula northeast of Inverness. From Cromarty, we go on a dolphin boat trip. We reserved this in advance. The company that organizes this (Ecoventures) is run only by women. The dinghy has room for 12 people. When we arrive in the North Sea we see groups of dolphins jumping and diving. What a fun experience! Each time they pop up in a different spot, and they come very close. It seems the bottlenose dolphins are following us. When we sail along the coast a little later we see many water birds, such as Kittiwakes and Cormorants.

After the boat trip we start the long drive to Thurso. The drive on the A9 along the North Sea coast and almost 3 hours later we are in Thurso. We spend the night in Tigh na Abhainn, a simple Guesthouse, full of knick knacks. The main shopping street in Turso is Rotterdam Street(!), and that is of course in Thurso's favor. We have a beer at Joe's Top Bar and later we eat at Le Bistro, the only restaurant of any kind.

Orkney Islands

After breakfast we drink a cup of coffee and read the newspaper in the still quiet center of Thurso. The ferry to the Orkney Islands departs at 12 noon. About 2 hours before departure we go to the harbor. We can check in right away and put the car in line. We walk around the harbor a bit and have a drink in the pub. The ferry arrives at 11:00 AM and we leave at 12:00 PM sharp. The crossing takes 1.45 hours and we are in Stromness around 2 pm. We drive to the Millers House and Harborside Guesthouse, which is a short distance from the terminal. The owners of the guesthouse are the proud winners of the 2006 award for the best breakfast in Scotland.

The Orkney IslandsThe Orkney Islands

After lunch at Julia's cafe we ​​drive to Skara Brae, an archaeological find of 7 Neolithic houses from 3000 BC. It is storming and raining so we have to put on our rain gear. The houses are in pretty good condition with a simple layout. The houses are all the same and there is no common house. The archaeological site was discovered by chance during a severe storm. A piece of land was swept away by the storm so that the remains of the houses became visible. Visit to Skara Brae costs £6.50, but you can buy an Explorer pass from Historic Scotland. This allows you to visit a total of 6 sites on Orkney for £16. After visiting 3 sites you already have the pass out.

We return to Stromness and rest for a while. Then we go for a drink at the busy Ferry Inn. It's crowded and the crowd is noisy. They try to get above the music and the football game on TV. We eat in Bistro 76, which is nice but won't win prizes in the culinary field. Then we have a drink in the bar of the Stromness hotel. I take a Highland Park first and then a Scapa single malt. Both are made on Orkney.

Stones of Stennes

We set off with a well-filled stomach. Today the Stones of Stennes is first on the program. These are 4 gigantic long flat stones, which are in an ellipse shape in a meadow. There were originally 12. The meaning of the stones is unclear. And how they were placed here at the time is also a mystery. We continue to Birsay, this was once the center of Norwegian power. The Normans had established counties and settlements there and took part in crusades to the Middle East from here. In Birsay there is a ruin of a beautiful count's palace from the 16th century. On a headland is the Brough of Birsay, which duringhigh tide is not attainable.

Lighthouse at Brough off BirsayLighthouse at Brough off Birsay

We then proceed to Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkney Islands, located on the main island. An interesting sight is the great St. Magnus Cathedral, a Norwegian church from 1137. We have lunch in Kirkwall and continue to the east. The main island is connected to the islands of South Ronaldsay and Burray by basalt dams.

Before we go back to Stromness we stop at Maeshowe. Although no bones have ever been found here, it is believed that this is also a Neolithic burial mound. Normally, the hill can only be visited with a guide after reservation by telephone. We have not made a reservation, but fortunately it is not busy and we can join the tour. The guide, Fran, tells very vividly the theories surrounding the origin. Back in Stromness we have dinner at the Stromness hotel.

MaeshoweMaeshowe

Stromness - Thurso - Durness 122 km

We start the day again with a delicious breakfast, after which we go for a walk around Stromness as the ferry does not leave until 11 am. The crossing is smooth and we eat a pizza (with chips!) on board. Once we arrive in Scrabster we continue along the north coast. A beautiful landscape passes us by. We see lakes, mountains with heather, sheep and a rugged coastline with rocks. The weather is changeable: sun, clouds, rain and clear spells with sun. At half past two we arrive in Durness. We find a room at a B&B, with a shower in the hallway downstairs. The host family is very friendly.

We walk via the beach, up a headland and over the dunes and rocks to the viewpoint Faraid Head. We have a really beautiful view over the Kyle of Durness. The walk is a total of 5 miles. In the evening we eat the only restaurant in the village. Good food in a stylish dining room. What you wouldn't think from the outside. So don't judge by appearance.

Durness - Ullapool 104 km

After breakfast we drive south to Blairmore. From here we walk to Sandwood Beach. An easy route through a beautiful area of ​​lakes, mountains and lots of heath. Like many places in the Scottish Highlands, this area was once inhabited by smallholder farmers, but after the major crop failures of 1847, the landowners evicted the farmers and wanted to use the land for sheep farming. The walk eventually leads to Sandwood Beach. At high tide this beach is 1.5 km long and at low tide 3 km. In the distance is Cape Wrath, Scotland's most northerly lighthouse. The walk leads back to the parking lot for 7 km via the same road.

After having eaten our sandwiches we drive further south to Ullapool. It is a beautiful route along mountains, inlets and lochs. At 2.30 pm we arrive in Ullapool. We stay in the special hotel Ceilidh Place. At the top of the hotel is a large lounge where you can read quietly while enjoying a drink. Ullapool is a small harbor town. We explore the town a bit and have a pint at the Ferry Boat Inn (FBI). In the evening we eat in the hotel, good food and a nice informal atmosphere. Afterwards we have a drink in the Arch Inn.

Ullapool - Stornoway 2:45 am sailing

In the morning Erik takes a plate of Scottish porridge for the first time. He thinks it tastes like the Groningen-known delicacy "Klont". We look for the tourist office and ask for a nice car ride in the area. It continues to rain today so we don't want to do any outdoor activities. The tourist office sends us on a route around the Coigach peninsula. On the way we pass a fish smokehouse. Through the windows we see the smoking area and the packing department. In the shop they sell excellent smoked salmon. During the ride we should have a view of the Summer Isles, but due to the bad weather we don't see any of that. We also leave the Hydroponicum for what it is. We drive back to Ullapool and are a bit bored. Due to the bad weather we can't do anything outside.

At the end of the afternoon we check in for the crossing to the Isle of Lewis (Leodhas). The boat arrives around 4.30 pm and we leave within 45 minutes. After about 3 hours we are on the other side, after that it is about a 20 minute drive to Broadbay House Guesthouse near the hamlet of Back. This is a luxurious accommodation with a tastefully decorated room. We have a balcony with a sea view and even a flat screen and docking station for my ipod. We have a drink in the hotel lounge before going to bed to watch TV.

Port of Ness

Today we get an extensive and delicious breakfast including toast, kippers and scrambled eggs. From the breakfast room we have a beautiful view of the beach and Broad Bay. There are even binoculars ready for bird watching. Along the way we notice that the Celtic texts are more prominent on road signs, among other things than on het mainland. The English translation is sometimes even missing and then it is difficult to read traffic signs.

We drive to Port Nis (Port of Ness), the far north of Lewis. We visit a 12th century church, Teampull Mholuaidh or St Moluag's Church. The church has served as a sheepfold and has been functioning as a chapel since 1912. Then we drive on to Rubba Robhanais (Butt of Lewis). This is a viewpoint with a lighthouse and cliffs. From here we drive to Arnol, where we visit a Black house (or Taigh Dubh). A black house is a traditional home with a turf roof and a fireplace without a chimney in the center of the room. This way the smoke can drive away the mosquitoes. We have lunch here before continuing to Dun Charlabhaigh Broch (Carloway Broch). This is a well-preserved reinforced residential tower from the beginning of our era.

Then we continue to Calanais (Callanish). Here are the famous standing stones. The complex dates from about 3000 BC. and consists of about 50 stones in total. The archaeological site is in a beautiful location on a lake. It is not clear what the stones were for. Finally we drive to Uig. A historic find was made here in 1831, by a cow! He/she found 92 figures, 78 of which were Viking chess pieces carved from walrus ivory. The pieces are now in the British Museum in London and the Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. Replicas are in Uig. We then drive back to the Guesthouse and have a drink. We see seals lying on a rock in the bay enjoying the sun. In the evening we eat in the guesthouse. The host Ian is an exquisite cook.

The standing stones in CalanaisThe standing stones in Calanais

Stornoway - Tarbert - Isle of Skye 72 km

Today we drive south to Tarbert (An Tairbeart), located on the Isle of Harris. We drive around the island, through a beautiful and rugged landscape. We arrive at Rognadal (Rodel). Here is the St. Clemens Church, built in 1520. A number of clan chiefs of the McCleod clan are buried in the church. We have lunch in the Rodel hotel which is located behind the church. It seems that we are here at the end of the world. We drive back to Tarbert and walk through the town. The ferry departs at 4:00 PM to Uig on the Isle of Skye. From Uig we drive on a narrow mountain road through the Quirang forest to Staffin, on the other side of the island. Because it is very foggy we can't see a hand in front of our eyes.

Isle of SkyeIsle of Skye

Our Bed & Breakfast, Old Mission House, is located in a village called Staffin, a Gaelic speaking community. Finding a restaurant here is quite difficult. About 6 miles to the south is a hotel, but it's already full. Then we have to go 12 miles north, to Flodigarry Country House Hotel, but it turns out they are closed due to a private party. There is also no pub anywhere in this area. Our last rescue is a cafeteria at a training center. We order a burger, and go back to the B&B.

Portree, the capital of Skye

We start the day with a visit to Portree, the capital of Skye. On the way we first stop at the Kilt Rock Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall that plunges many meters down. The road after the waterfall narrows to 1 lane. Every 50 m there is room to pass each other, and people politely wait for each other. Portree is not a big place with 2000 inhabitants, but it is a nice fishing village with a cheerful harbour. We drink a cup of coffee in a cafe overlooking the harbor. After walking around Portree, we drive on to Glen Brittle. The valley of Glen Brittle is very deserted and there is not a village in sight. At the end of the Glen we finally arrive at a small camping site and at the beach. From there we go for a walk. Several times we cross fast-flowing rivers, once via a bridge. Every now and then we come across sheep. After 1.5 hours the walk turns around via a loop and we walk back.

After the tour we drive north along the west side of the island. The clouds clear and we finally see the high peaks, Munroes, of the mountains. Munro is a typical Scottish term for mountain. The Scots never just call a mountain a mountain. Depending on where you are, what it looks like and how high it is, a mountain can be a Munro, a Ben, a Hill, a Law, a Brae, a Mount, a Pen or even a Pap. Munro refers to a mountain of 3000 feet or higher and there are 284 in total.

At Dunvegan we turn right again towards Portree and then to the Trotternish peninsula where Staffin is situated. It's clearing up and we even see some sunbeams. In the evening we eat in the Glenview hotel in Culnacnoc, about 7 kilometers south of Staffin.

Staffin - Fort William 200 km

First we have breakfast and then we drive via Portree to the south of the island. We leave via the Skye bridgeeventually the island over a bridge that was completed in 1995 and cost many millions. Just after the toll bridge we see Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland's most photographed landmark. Eilean Donan Castle is a fairytale castle dating from 1230, strategically located at the confluence of 3 Lochs. Until 1719 it was the stronghold of the McCrae family. It is a crowded castle. Photography is not allowed inside and guides are present in the large halls who tell stories about the castle.

Eilean Donan CastleEilean Donan Castle

After admiring the castle we drive via Invergarry to Fort William. On the way stop at the Commandos memorial. An impressive memorial to commando troops from the Second World War. We are staying at the Alexandra hotel. In the evening we dine at restaurant No4. Here they have reasonable food and it is also reasonably priced.

The train to Mallaig

Because there are many cyclists in the hotel, we have to move to a B&B. We arrive at the luxurious B&B The Grange, located on the other side of the center. Today the weather is beautiful with a bright blue sky. At the station we buy tickets for the train to Mallaig. This seems to be one of the most beautiful train routes in Scotland. And indeed the route is beautiful. We drive along mountains and lakes, over beautiful railway bridges to end after 1.5 hours in the harbor town of Mallaig. We really enjoy the train ride. In addition to the 3 regular trains of First Scotrail, the Jacobite Steam Train with historic wagons also runs every day. This locomotive was also used in the Harry Potter films. This ride is only 3 times as expensive as the regular train. In Mallaig we quickly got bored. We walk around and eat in the Tea Garden. Ferries to Skye Island also depart from Mallaig. Just after 4 pm the train returns and around 5:30 pm we are back in Fort William. In the evening we eat at the pier at Crannog. A good fish restaurant, where Erik eats salmon and I eat haddock (haddock) with delicious oysters as a starter!

Fort William - Glasgow 268 km

We get an extensive breakfast and then say goodbye to the Grange. We're heading for Glasgow today. Unfortunately the weather is very cloudy today and we can't see anything of the beautiful landscape. The valley we drive through has a bloody history. On February 13, 1692, the men of the Campbell clan murdered about 40 members of the MacDonald clan and expelled more than 300. All this 10 days after they had taken advantage of their hospitality. And only because, through a misunderstanding, the MacDonalds had not sworn allegiance to the Dutch/English king/stadholder William III, who was also king of Scotland.

At half past twelve we are finally in Glasgow. Our hotel is located in the Merchant City district. The Brunswick hotel is fine, not big, with a trendy bar at street level. After a rest and lunch at the hotel, we take the Underground to the Westend. We are going to visit the Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum. Their interesting and extensive collection consists of stuffed animals, antiquities, Scottish history and some paintings by eg Rembrandt and Dali. The showpiece is a real Spitfire from 1947. When we have seen everything we walk to Byre Road, a lively student district. We have a drink here and then walk back to the hotel. On the way we stop in the Corinthian district. This district originated in the 19th century as an urban expansion for trade and banking. After the war, the district fell into disrepair, but since about 10 years the district has been completely hip again with trendy catering establishments, many apartments and creative companies that bring the old neoclassical buildings back to life. In the evening we eat at Dhabba, a modern North Indian restaurant.

Armadillo, GlasgowArmadillo, Glasgow

Glasgow Guided Tour

Today we get a city tour accompanied by a guide. Michael is the guide for today, he leads us through Glasgow. We start in Merchant City, the 18th century business district. We visit Ramshorn Churchyard the barred tombs and walk through Candleriggs, this street used to be the former indoor fruit market but nowadays there are several cafes and eateries. We see the Tolbooth Steeple from the 17th century, this is a church tower without a church. Then we follow the High Street towards the cathedral. The church is dedicated to St Mungo, patroness and alleged founder of Glasgow. Next to the cathedral is the Necropolis, a hill with a large collection of funerary monuments from the 19th century. Then we go to George Square, here are the Victorian City Chambers from 1888. The square itself contains statues of important Scots and British. We walk past the Gallery of Modern Art in Queen Street and the beating shopping heart of Glasgow. Here are major shopping streets such as St. Enoch Square, Buchanan Street and Argyle Street. The guide points out a number of small alleys and courtyards that you would otherwise pass by. We end in the former financial center of the city.

The Cathedral in GlasgowThe Cathedral in Glasgow

We find a nice restaurant for lunch and in the afternoon we visit the Glasgow School of Art, located in a masterpiece of Mackintosh. We get the tour of a student. Mackintosh has put a lot of thought into this building and it is very stylish, despite being completed in 2 phases. The GSoA is like a top institute and the students are very proud to be able to study here. After the tour we walk back to Sauchiehall Street. A quiet shopping street that houses the Willow Tea Room, designed by Mackintosh. In the evening we eat oriental at Mao bar and cafe and watch football.

Glasgow - Trossachs - Edinburgh 149 km

Today we head to Trossachs National Park, about 31 miles north of Glasgow. We're going to have coffee in Aberfoyle first. The road in the National Park soon climbs steeply, up the Duke's Pass, after which we end up in the Queen Elizabeth Forest. We drive through a beautiful part of the forest along 3 Lochs (lakes).

Loch Lomond, Trossachs National ParkLoch Lomond, Trossachs National Park

We drive on, more or less directly to Edinburgh. Here we quickly find our B&B Ardmor House. Robin & Colin give us a warm welcome. We take the bus (day ticket £2.50, no change) to the center and have lunch in the prestigious London department store Harvey Nichols. The lunchroom is on the top floor with a great view over the city and surroundings. Then we take line 36 to the Scottish Parliament. Scotland has only had its own parliament since 1999. Due to a meeting we cannot get a tour. After this we go back to the center and have a pint at Café Royal Circle Bar. The classic bar has an impressive Victorian decor. The huge elliptical island bar and the paintings by famous Scottish inventors are especially interesting. In the evening we eat in restaurant Fisher's, located in the harbor district of Leith. The venison, oysters and swordfish tasted good. After dinner we explore Edinburgh's gay scene, which is mainly concentrated in the so-called Gay Triangle.

View over EdinburghView over Edinburgh

Another day in Edinburgh

Today a tour of the Scottish Parliament is possible and we had booked it right away yesterday. The tour lasts 1 hour and a lot is explained about the building, the architecture and the architect Enric Mirales and the history of its creation. The architect has gone to great lengths to incorporate various Scottish icons, such as the Andrew's Cross. After the tour we walk via the Royal Mile towards Edinburgh Castle. Halfway through the Royal Mile we have lunch at Always Sunday in a lunchroom with tasty sandwiches and salads. All fair trade and organic, so very responsible. At Edinburgh Castle we turn towards the National Museum of Scotland. This museum is only 10 years old and is intended to give a picture of the development of Scotland in economic, political, cultural, technological and even sporting fields. The exhibition is interesting, but you have to find your way around a bit and some prior knowledge of the history of Scotland is useful.

We decide to go back to our B&B to get the car. We still want to go to Calton Hill to enjoy the view. In the evening we eat near the B&B, at La Favorita. A popular Italian tent that has already won a number of awards. Today we go to bed on time, tomorrow we have to get up early again for the flight to the Netherlands.

Back to the Netherlands

We get up at 5.15 am and have breakfast. Robin & Colin, our hosts, are still in bed, but have prepared breakfast in a cool box. We drive to Turnhouse airport and hand in the car at Hertz. We tell our story about the band, but they are not very full (a few weeks later after an e-mail we receive an apology from our side and everything is resolved properly). We check in and it turns out that we have too heavy luggage, 11 kilos in total. We have to pay an extra £6 per kilo and that way we are more expensive than if we had flown with KLM! The flight continues fine. We are in the front of the plane and we land at Schiphol 15 minutes early.