Three Alpine tour by motorbike

In August 2009 we decided to go on holiday in Europe with our motorcycle and we drove the Drie Alpentour. The area, where three Alpine countries (Austria, Switzerland and Italy) meet, has a beautiful nature. It is actually a Vier Alpentour if you also include the German Alps. This tour is highly recommended for lovers of high mountain passes with many hairpins and very many curves!

We are going to travel for 9 days through Austria, Switzerland and Italy. The quiet Austrian village of Fliess is an ideal starting point to discover this stunning nature reserve, because it is centrally located and there is a motorcycle hotel. John receives the routes we are going to drive digitally, so when we leave, everything is stored in Miep's memory (our navigation).

When we have brought the dogs to the permanent boarding house, we pack our suitcases and I am pleasantly surprised when I notice what kind of stuff fits in the side case of the motorcycle. John is really looking forward to riding those high mountain passes with lots of hairpins and lots of curves.

Windmills and windmills

First we drive to Aachen on the highway and then the route starts in Eupen. From here we drive inland to Saint Jean Saverne. For lunch we stop en route in Nonnweiler where we enjoy a delicious sandwich on the terrace in the sun. We continue our way by driving on all back roads and we cross a border again and again. It is a very beautiful region, but a bit of a shame that the beautiful landscape is 'ruined' by the many windmills. At 5.30 pm we arrive at hotel Kleider in Saint Jean Saverne. We settle in the hotel room and first have something to eat, with a nice glass of wine. As a nightcap we take a cup of coffee after dinner and then we go to bed on time. Because it is very hot, we leave the windows open, but at night it suddenly starts to blow hard and John has to fight with the curtains. After he has them under control again, we can go back to sleep peacefully.

To Austria

We make sure we leave before 08.00 and drive to Austria via France and Germany. First we cross the border at Lahr and on the way we pass a large reservoir. Then we drive via Schwanau (where I really saw a lot of white swans), Nussbach and Salem to Lake Constance. Then we cross the border again in Lindau. So far, the French host of the hotel was right, predicting that it would rain a little. But before we can start today's mountain passes, the rain suddenly comes pouring down from the sky. We stop for a while and first think very positively that it is just a shower that will blow over. But unfortunately... Then we put on the rain suit and only take it off again when we have arrived at the hotel.

We continue and via the Hochtannbergpass (1679 meters), the Flexenpass (1773 meters) and the Arlbergpass (1793 meters) we drive to Landeck. From here we continue our way to Fliess, but getting there is even more difficult than expected. Miep indicates that we have to go up to the left... But that's not possible, so we drive on... Miep says turn around... John turns and now we have to go up to the right... And that's right, because we are indeed going steep up and after a few tough bends we finally arrive in Fliess. Our hotel Marienhof is located in the middle of the village, where we sit down for dinner after a warm shower at 6.30 pm. At this time, all guests are expected at the table to eat together. We are served a delicious three-course menu and enjoy a nice glass of wine.

Fliess, view from the mountainsFliess, view from the mountains

On the glacier

Today the actual tour really starts. We first do a round of Fliess, Eicholz, Fliess and then we drive on to Kaunertal. The Kaunertal Gletscher Panoramastrasse takes us past the Gepatschstausee and then we drive up the glacier. It is much colder there than I thought and I wish I had put on a sweater under my jacket. At the top we look around, we enjoy the beautiful view and then quickly down again on our way to Samnaun (Switzerland). Here we can eat outside again in the sun and when we have finished eating it starts to rain, so we decide to go shopping until the weather is dry. It's nice to shop tax-free, but we have to hold back because we don't have much space in the motorcycle.

Then we go back to Fliess in the rain, alternating with the sun. The route through the Inntal is worth it!

Back at the hotel we look at which route we will drive tomorrow and we decide that it will be the Timmelsjoch.

Tour through the Alps

The second day of our tour through the Alps starts with cloudy, gray and gray weather. So we get back on the bike with our rain gear on and go for it. Our journey takes us over the top, past the quiet village of Piller, then we pass through the Pitztal and then through the Ötztal. Finally we drive via Solden to Obergurgl. The weather has improved a lot, so we eat a delicious cup of soup in a deserted ski resort. Then we go back to Solden, where we make a stop to enjoy a nice cup of coffee with cake. If we want to continue driving, we have to put on the rain pants again, because in the meantime the weather has become bad again. We continue our way towards Timmelsjoch, but it is too late to cross it, so we decide to return to Solden. Here we drink a cup of coffee, which can now be enjoyed on the terrace in the sun. The weather is and remains unpredictable and varied.

Then we drive back to our hotel, freshen up and then we sit down for dinner. Dinner today consists of pea cream soup in advance, as main course gypsy schnitzel with salzkartoffelen and 7 cherries for dessert.

Two Haflingers in the ÖtztalTwo Haflingers in the Ötztal

Timmelsboy

Today we skip breakfast and head straight for Kühtai-Sattel and Timmelsjoch. We drive the first part of the tour the same way as yesterday: at the top at Piller, which by the way is a really nice walking area, then via the Pitztal and the Ötztal to Kühtai-Sattel. First we stop in Solden for breakfast. Fortunately today it is dry, but with time and the late it is very cold. The area near Kühtai-Sattel is beautiful and the many stray cows are a beautiful sight.

Then we continue to the Timmelsjoch. Arriving on top, we drink a cup of coffee on the Italian side while we enjoy the magnificent view. During the descent we stop several times to take pictures of this beautiful nature reserve. That afternoon we are back at the hotel around four o'clock and to recover from the ride we sit there on the terrace and we can still enjoy the afternoon sun and the amazing view.

The Silvretta High Alpine Road

This day we start again without breakfast, so we are already on the bike at 07:00. Today the weather is good, because the sky is a clear blue with a few clouds here and there. Today's route takes us first through the Voral Mountains and we drive over the Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse. We already had part of the route on the way there, so after breakfast in Austria we decide to shorten the route a bit. We continue through the Grossen Walsertal, which is a completely different area than yesterday, but still with a lot of beautiful nature. Then in Faschina we pick up the original route again and through the Montafon we drive to the Silvretta. This is an ideal place for John to have a blast, so accelerate and we'll be upstairs in no time. We stop at the reservoir to have a look around and I can recover from the intense ride. Then we ascend even further to 3869 meters altitude to have lunch there on the Bielerhöhe. The way back down is calm and on the back of the bike I enjoy the beautiful nature and the free-ranging horses that are grazing everywhere. Finally we drive via Galtur and Ischgl back to our hotel in Fliess.

Day in Switzerland and Italy

We like going out early without breakfast, so we'll do that again today. We are lucky with the weather because the sky is a radiant blue. At the top, through the Kaunertal park, we drive towards Kurns and via the Ofen pass we arrive in Switzerland. The road towards St Moritz is beautiful and very pleasant to drive. We have already discovered this beautiful border area with a snowmobile. Just after the tunnel towards Livigno we stop for breakfast: we eat a delicious sandwich and drink a real Italian espresso.

Then we drive on to Livigno: it is quite busy and large and there are mainly many campers and cyclists to see. That's why we don't stop, but continue to Stelvio. This is again a beautiful nature reserve, although the weather is very different from the areas we have seen in recent days. I can't decide whether the Silvretta, the Timmelsjoch or the Stelvio wins in terms of beauty, because they all have their own charm. The way up is again quite a challenge, but on the way we get off the motorbike a few times to take some pictures. Once we get to the top, I don't know what I see! It is very busy: shops, food stalls and lots of people everywhere. We have a drink on the terrace to take it all in.

On the way down I take more pictures of this beautiful area. Looking up I can hardly believe where we came from as it is really steep! The landscape becomes a bit more pleasant once we have passed the tree line and via the Reschenpass we arrive in Austria again. We pass the Lago di Resia, which is known for the church tower that should protrude above the water, but we don't see it anywhere. Then it's time for a shortlunch stop and afterwards we go shopping in Landeck. We make the decision to go home tomorrow.

Stelvio PassStelvio Pass

Towards Germany

Today we have breakfast in the hotel again before we set off, but we soon regret our decision, because the breakfast is not much. After breakfast we hand in the key and we leave at 08:20. It rained last night and occasionally thundered, which means that dark clouds are still hanging over the mountains. We drive through the Arlbergtunnel towards Bregenz and then we go through the Pfandertunnel. When we have the tunnels behind us, a bright blue sky smiles at us. Then the road takes us further via Lindau, Friedrichshaven to Germany.

After lunch we head towards the Black Forest and eventually we end up in Bad Wildbad and decide to stay at Hotel Valsana. This town is a true spa and from our hotel we have a magnificent view. That evening we are already in bed at 8.30 pm and are happy that we can finally sleep in a decent bed again.

And almost home again

After a good night's sleep, we go for breakfast. Compared to the breakfast at the hotel in Fliess, this breakfast is heavenly: there are various types of bread and spreads. We really enjoyed it! We leave at 08.20 and drive via Pforzheim towards Reinbollen. From there on to Cochem and after that we really go home!